Importance of Fats in Dog Food

Fat has spent a long time being treated like the bad guy.

Too much fat can absolutely be a problem for some dogs, especially dogs with pancreatitis, hypertriglyceridemia or certain digestive conditions. But that is very different from saying fat itself is unhealthy.

Dogs need dietary fat.

They need it for energy, healthy cells, skin and coat, the brain and nervous system, hormone production, absorption of fat-soluble vitamins and essential fatty acids.

What I want pet parents to understand is that not all fat is the same.

Fresh animal fat that naturally belongs with muscle meat is different from repeatedly heated grease. A carefully selected oil used in a gently cooked recipe is different from a heavily processed mystery oil. And therapeutic omega-3 EPA and DHA are an important part of the fat conversation, but they are not meant to become the only fat in the bowl.

See your vet for a diagnosis and then you and I can collaborate on a custom strategy for your dog's health.

Why Do Dogs Need Fat?

Fat is one of the most concentrated sources of energy in the diet, but its job goes far beyond calories.

Dietary fats help support:

  • Brain and nervous-system function
  • Healthy cell membranes
  • Skin and coat
  • Hormone production and cellular signaling
  • Immune and inflammatory balance
  • Absorption of vitamins A, D, E and K
  • Palatability and satisfaction from food
  • Energy for active dogs and dogs struggling to maintain weight

This is one reason I do not automatically consider a very lean diet a healthier diet.

Skinless chicken breast, rice and vegetables may look wonderfully “clean,” but if we have stripped most of the useful fat out of the bowl, we may have created another nutritional problem.

Fresh Animal Fat Is Usually Where I Want to Start

When appropriate for the dog, I generally prefer fat that comes naturally with fresh animal food.

A piece of beef does not arrive in nature as isolated protein powder. Muscle meat and fat occur together. The same is true of poultry, lamb, pork and other animal foods.

That naturally occurring fat provides energy and a mix of fatty acids in the same whole-food matrix as the protein.

So when I feed fresh food, I am not automatically trimming every piece of visible fat away or removing every bit of skin.

Depending on the dog, healthy fat sources may include:

  • The natural fat attached to beef, lamb, pork or poultry
  • Chicken or turkey skin when appropriate
  • Eggs
  • Sardines and other oily fish
  • Appropriate amounts of tallow, ghee or butter
  • Other naturally occurring animal fats within a balanced fresh-food diet

The amount still needs to fit the individual dog. A highly active dog, a thin senior and a dog recovering from pancreatitis are not going to get the same fat strategy.

Rendered, Processed and Repeatedly Heated Fats Are Different

This is where the word fat becomes too broad to be useful.

I make a distinction between fresh animal fat that is still part of the original food and fat that has been separated, rendered, reheated, heavily processed or stored for long periods.

Heat, oxygen, light and time can change fat quality.

That is why I am much less enthusiastic about:

  • Greasy pan drippings used routinely
  • Repeatedly heated cooking fats
  • Low-quality rendered animal fats
  • Old or poorly stored oils
  • Highly processed seed oils used as the primary source of dietary fat
  • Products where the source and quality of the fat are difficult to identify

I am not trying to hit a fat percentage with whatever greasy substance is nearby.

I want the fat itself to be worth feeding.

What About Oils in Homemade Dog Food?

Oils are not automatically bad either.

This is where preparation method makes a difference.

If I am feeding raw or very lightly cooked meat, I usually prefer to use the naturally occurring animal fat that comes with the protein when it is appropriate for the dog.

A long slow-cooked recipe may be built differently.

Dr. Ruth Roberts' CrockPet approach, for example, often starts with leaner cuts of meat and then intentionally adds the fat source separately.

That can make sense because long cooking renders a significant amount of fat from meat. Starting lean gives us more control over the finished fat content, helps avoid relying heavily on fat that has spent hours cooking, and often allows us to use more affordable cuts of protein.

Then a chosen oil or other fat source can be added intentionally as part of the recipe.

That does not mean oil is nutritionally superior to fresh animal fat.

It means: the cooking method changes how we build the bowl.

Omega-3 Is an Important Part of the Fat Picture

Fresh animal fat is an important part of how I build many fresh-food diets, but it does not automatically provide the amount of omega-3 EPA and DHA I may want for the individual dog.

EPA and DHA deserve particular attention because of their roles in the brain, nervous system, joints, skin and cardiovascular system — and because they help influence inflammatory pathways in the body.

That is why I pay even closer attention to omega-3 when I am working with dogs dealing with allergies, chronic inflammation, joint disease, cognitive changes, seizures or certain neurologic and behavioral concerns.

But omega-3 oil is not intended to become the only fat in the bowl. I still want appropriate dietary fat from fresh animal foods when that is suitable for the dog. Think of EPA and DHA as a specific nutritional and therapeutic piece of the fat strategy, not a replacement for the rest of the diet's healthy fats.

The amount also deserves more thought than “one pump” or “one dropper.” Maintenance and therapeutic use are different, and the useful number is the actual milligrams of EPA and DHA the product provides.

Read: Omega-3 for Dogs — EPA, DHA, Maintenance & Therapeutic Use →

Senior Dogs Need Good Fat Too

Senior dogs are one of the groups where I especially do not want us automatically stripping fat out of the bowl.

Many seniors begin eating smaller meals while simultaneously dealing with muscle loss, cognitive changes, inflammation, joint disease or reduced appetite.

If the dog is eating less, every bite has to work harder.

Appropriate fat can help provide more energy in a smaller volume of food while also making food more appealing.

EPA and DHA deserve special attention in seniors because we are thinking about the brain, nervous system, joints and inflammatory load.

Again, this does not mean pouring oil over every senior dog's dinner.

We still look at weight, muscle condition, digestion, appetite, pancreatitis history, medications and the rest of the dog's health.

Pancreatitis: Low Fat Does Not Mean No Fat

This is where the conversation needs more nuance.

In dogs with pancreatitis, veterinarians commonly recommend a low-fat diet, and that recommendation has an important purpose. During active pancreatitis, reducing dietary fat helps decrease digestive demand on the pancreas and is an important part of treatment.

I am not suggesting you ignore that.

What I do want you to understand is that low fat does not mean nutritionally fat-free forever.

Dogs still require essential fatty acids. They still need fat for cell health, the nervous system and absorption of fat-soluble vitamins.

So once we move beyond emergency stabilization, the bigger question becomes:

How do we provide enough useful fat and essential fatty acids without overwhelming this dog's pancreatic tolerance?

The Type of Fat Still Counts in a Pancreatitis Diet

A low-fat number on a label does not automatically tell me everything I want to know about the quality of the diet.

Many veterinary low-fat prescription foods are designed very carefully to restrict total fat and improve digestibility. That can be extremely useful, especially during acute disease and stabilization.

But they are still processed diets.

Depending on the formula, they may contain rendered animal fats, vegetable or soybean oils, processed starches, powdered fibers, flavorings and added synthetic vitamins and minerals.

That does not make the prescription diet useless. It means the words low fat do not answer every question I have about the food.

Some pancreatitis dogs also refuse the prescription diet.

Nausea and abdominal discomfort are common reasons a pancreatitis dog may refuse food, so I never want a pet parent assuming the food itself is automatically the problem.

But palatability, aroma, texture, processing and the ingredient profile can also influence whether an individual dog wants to eat a particular food.

If the vet says the dog needs low fat, I respect the reason for that recommendation.

Then I may ask a second question: Can we meet that low-fat goal with a fresh, highly digestible diet using carefully selected lean proteins and controlled amounts of higher-quality fats?

That is a different question than simply rejecting the prescription food.

It is also exactly why pancreatitis diets often need to be individualized.

Read: Can Dogs With Pancreatitis Have Omega-3? →

Why Omega-3 Still Comes Up in Pancreatitis

If pancreatitis is an inflammatory condition, it makes sense that we would also pay attention to fatty acids involved in inflammatory signaling.

That is where EPA and DHA become interesting.

The challenge is that fish oil is still fat.

So with a pancreatitis dog, I care about concentration.

If one product gives us a meaningful EPA and DHA amount in a very small volume, that may be much easier to work into a carefully controlled low-fat plan than an oil that requires several teaspoons to reach the same therapeutic level.

We are not adding omega-3 because “fish oil is healthy.”

We are looking at EPA and DHA because of the specific job we want them to do, including supporting inflammatory balance.

Healthy Fat Does Not Automatically Mean Unlimited Fat

This distinction is especially important.

Tallow can be a beautiful fresh-food fat.

Chicken skin can be a perfectly appropriate part of a fresh diet.

Sardines can be incredibly useful.

None of that means every dog should eat unlimited amounts.

A healthy fat can still be too much fat for a particular dog.

Quality and quantity are separate questions.

Does Fat Make Dogs Gain Weight?

Fat is calorie-dense, so it absolutely contributes to total calories.

But “remove the fat” is not the same thing as a thoughtful weight-management strategy.

I want to know where the calories are coming from.

Is the diet overloaded with starch? Are treats and chews adding hundreds of calories? Is protein too low? Is activity reduced? Is the dog losing muscle while everyone is focused only on the number on the scale?

Sometimes we reduce total food.

Sometimes we adjust carbohydrate.

Sometimes we need more protein and appropriate fat, not less nutrition.

The Right Fat Strategy Depends on the Whole Dog

There is no universal tablespoon of oil that every dog should receive.

I look at:

  • Age
  • Breed and size
  • Activity level
  • Weight and muscle condition
  • Diet history
  • Protein sources
  • Current fat sources
  • Stool and digestive tolerance
  • Appetite
  • Medications and supplements
  • Lab trends
  • Pancreatic history
  • Liver and gallbladder function
  • Kidney and endocrine concerns
  • Inflammatory, neurologic and immune patterns

TCVM can also help identify patterns such as heat, dampness, stagnation, deficiency, digestive weakness, stress or inflammation and may influence the foods and fats I choose.

Do Not Be Afraid of Fat — Learn to Tell the Difference

What I want you to take away from this article is not simply “add more fat.”

I want you to understand what kind of fat is in the bowl.

Fresh animal fat attached to quality muscle meat is different from heavily processed or repeatedly heated fat.

An oil added intentionally to a slow-cooked recipe can make sense because of how that recipe is prepared.

Omega-3 EPA and DHA deserve their own calculation because we may be using them specifically to support inflammatory balance, brain health, joints, allergies or another therapeutic goal.

And a dog with pancreatitis may absolutely need lower total fat while still needing us to think carefully about the quality and usefulness of the fat that remains.

Start with real food. Preserve useful natural animal fat when it fits the dog. Use added oils intentionally. Measure EPA and DHA in milligrams. And customize when a health condition changes the rules.

Come, Sit and Stay Well.

Related Content

Frequently Asked Questions About Healthy Fats for Dogs

What are the best fats for dogs?

I generally prefer naturally occurring fat from fresh animal foods when it is appropriate for the individual dog. Eggs, oily fish and carefully selected added fats can also have a place. The best source depends on the rest of the diet, cooking method and the dog's health.

Is animal fat healthy for dogs?

Appropriate fresh animal fat can absolutely be part of a healthy dog diet. I distinguish naturally occurring fat attached to fresh meat from heavily rendered, repeatedly heated or low-quality processed fats.

Is omega-3 the only fat dogs need?

No. EPA and DHA are extremely useful omega-3 fatty acids, but they do not replace the need for appropriate dietary fat and calories from the rest of the diet.

Why is omega-3 used for inflammation in dogs?

EPA and DHA influence inflammatory signaling pathways in the body. This is one reason therapeutic omega-3 is commonly considered for conditions such as joint disease, allergies and other chronic inflammatory concerns.

Can dogs with pancreatitis have animal fat?

Dogs with active pancreatitis generally require careful fat restriction. That does not mean every source of fat must be eliminated forever. Once the dog is stable, the amount and type of fat should be customized based on the individual dog's tolerance, history and veterinary guidance.

Why might a pancreatitis dog refuse a prescription low-fat food?

Nausea, abdominal discomfort and poor appetite are common with pancreatitis and may be the primary reason a dog refuses food. Some dogs may also dislike the aroma, texture or ingredient profile of a particular processed diet. Food refusal during pancreatitis should be discussed with the veterinarian rather than assumed to be simple pickiness.

How much omega-3 is in one dropper?

Check the label for the actual milligrams of EPA and DHA provided in one milliliter or one full dropper. Add those two numbers together. Dropper size alone does not tell you the omega-3 dose.

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